Culinary America: Regional Cuisines

The United States has long been viewed as a melting pot of many cultures. Nowhere is this diversity more apparent than in the foods we eat. Culinary America reflects the many cultures and histories that comprise this country. Historically, as immigrants arrived in this country, they brought their customs and recipes and combined them with the produce and livestock available in the regions where they settled. The results yielded foods that were distinctly American, while preserving traditions from Europe, Africa, Mexico, and other corners of the world. Culinary America truly encompasses global ingredients and recipes.

Although some homogenization has occurred as people have become increasingly mobile, culinary America is very much the story of many different regional cuisines as opposed to one American cuisine. Because immigrants tended to settle in groups, American cuisine developed as a regionalized tradition and continues that way today. Just how diverse culinary America is becomes apparent when one travels throughout this country. Foods that are common in one region may be difficult to find in another.

In the Deep South, for instance, fried chicken and collard greens are favorites for dinner, followed by peach cobbler or shoofly pie for dessert. Go a little further south into Florida, and the Cuban sandwich and key lime pie will appear on most menus. Coastal towns in the south will probably serve shrimp and grits, fried catfish, and hush puppies. In the Pacific Northwest region, none of these dishes might be available. Instead, one is likely to find sourdough pancakes, crab Louie salad, pan-fried rainbow trout, and huckleberry pie. A sampling of foods from the Southwest shows a heavy influence of Mexican cuisine, and might include enchiladas, guacamole, and tortilla soup. New England is famous for Boston cream pie, clam chowder, and johnnycakes. Philadelphia cheese steak, hoagies, and devil’s food cake are popular in the Mid-Atlantic States.

One of the best ways to experience this country is through the foods of different regions. It is only truly possible to know culinary America by sampling the many cuisines that make up the diverse palette reflected by the different ingredients and recipes across this land. When traveling, skip the large restaurant chains and fast food establishments. Instead, make the effort to eat at local restaurants known for regional cuisine and traditional dishes. Some of these places may be off the beaten path, but it pays to ask the locals where they like to eat. Exploring regional cuisine is the only way to understand and experience culinary America.

Culinary Atlanta: Two Urban Licks

When one thinks of culinary Atlanta, one imagines traditional Southern cuisine: shrimp and grits, pit barbecue, turnip greens with fatback, and pecan pie. But that is a narrow representation of Atlanta’s diverse culinary offerings. Culinary Atlanta also offers a wide variety of more urban, modern cuisine. Some of these offerings include new variations on old favorites, while other dishes reflect the diverse cultures of an ever changing population.

One restaurant that has received much deserved attention is Two Urban Licks (820 Ralph McGill Blvd, Atlanta, Ga 30306; 404-522-4622). Since its opening in 2004, this revamped warehouse has been nominated for several awards, including Best Place to Take an Out of Towner. Chef Scott Serpas’ salmon chips have also been featured on ABCs daytime talk show, The View. The restaurant is noted for “fiery American cooking,” live blues performances, and small plates perfect for sharing or for enjoying solo. The unique wine wall, which stands 26 feet tall, holds over 40 stainless steel barrels and dispenses wine through a gravity-flow pouring system. Fruit- infused cocktails also hang from the rafters, adding an interesting flare. In addition to the main dining room, guests can dine in the courtyard or the patio. “This bluesy high-end grill is the ultimate hidden-in-plain-sight jewel.” (Conde Nast Traveler Hot List)

The menu features savory entrees that reflect traditional Southern ingredients and recipes, but within an updated twist. The popular salmon chips are loaded with short smoked salmon, chipotle cream cheese, capers, and red onion. Another highlight is executive chef Cameron Thompson’s fried chicken served with grilled corn slaw and chipotle honey mustard. Fried green tomatoes are dressed up with shrimp tarter sauce. The seafood lover will enjoy pan seared snapper served with a sweet potato purée, bell pepper confit, and basil vinaigrette. Also popular are the bronzed scallops with Gouda grits, smoked tomato broth, and Pico de Gallo.

Diners who enjoy the traditional tastes of culinary Atlanta will relish the peach cobbler with vanilla bean ice cream or the carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. Executive pastry chef Jonathan St. Hilaire shows his playful side with his wide assortment of cupcakes and ice cream. Other crowd pleasers are the banana chocolate bread pudding soaked in vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate mousse.

Whether dining with a friend or an entire party, Two Urban Licks is a great option for anyone who wants a hip and updated taste of traditional culinary Atlanta.

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